Marsan by Hélène Darrozze, 2*, Paris
Delicately plated beautiful food that was refined in it’s presentation and packed a huge punch when it came to flavour. Every mouthful danced on my tongue and delighted and surprised my taste buds. Extra-ordinarily excellent classic ingredients combined with some lesser well known ingredients to give every dish a unique and individual identity. It’s hard to pick a favourite but if I was forced to choose only a few of the 9 courses to have again it would have to be the Cep Mushroom Carpaccio with foie gras, fresh walnuts and vin jaune emulsion;
The black rice – pan fried baby cuttlefish and chorizo, lemon and parsley with Parmiggiano Reggiano cream;
The indispensable blue lobster, poached in tandoori spiced butter, carrot and citrus mousseline, Lampong pepper reduction, fresh coriander and beurre noisette
and finally the signature dessert Baba soaked in Darroze Armagnac (of my choice) served with quince confit and bergamot, quince and rose granita and an Earl Grey tea chantilly cream.
I am getting hungry just writing about it! The service was also excellent from start to finish and although we sadly just missed Darroze (apparently she’d just left when we arrived) the staff all spoke very fondly about her and conveyed her passion, her story and her love for family as much as food very well. All in all, if you’re in Paris and you love food as much as we do, it’s definitely worth a trip here for a special occasion!
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